It’s not at all uncommon to see mud flaps (also referred to as mud guards) on everything from big to small trailers and vehicles alike. The installation of truck and trailer mud flaps offers several benefits including the opportunity for the owner to personalize the vehicle. Clearly, mud flaps are more than simple decoration, so let’s look at some of their benefits and the purpose they serve.
The specific operation of tractor-trailers and other large rigs is governed by precise laws that have been put into place to better protect smaller vehicles against potential dangers. As far as mud flaps go, some requirements have been put into place by many states. For instance, mud flap installation and usage are governed by specific rules in Arizona. Water, gravel, or a combination of debris types must be deflected by guards, per regulations of certain states. Thus far, federal regulations have not been assigned to mud flaps.
Regardless of state regulations, the installation of high-quality, safe, durable mud guards is just good practice. This is particularly true in the case of large vehicles, but mud flaps (through the years) have also served as a type of fashion statement for smaller vehicles.
Protection is the mud guard’s primary purpose, but they protect from more than just mud. Hazards such as water, rocks, and more are also protected against. They discourage unsafe conditions and damage to other vehicles from flying debris that is kicked up from the tires of trailers and trucks. But they also prevent damage to the rig’s undercarriage. Salt, other ice melting chemicals, and corrosive elements are also somewhat dissuaded from coming into contact with the trailer and tractor because of the durable materials on mud flaps.
Sheet metal and rubber are the two most common types of materials used for mud guards. Of the two, the more decorative is the shiny stainless steel or aluminum. Gravel and rocks are effectively repelled, however, thanks to the rigidity/flexibility balance of wear resistant, highly durable heavy-duty rubber mud flaps.
With all of the protection that mud guards offer, it comes as no surprise that trailer and truck mechanical parts last longer when mud flaps are used. And to ensure that the brackets that hold the mud flaps last, not only are they adjustable and made from spring steel, but for safety and security, several tests are undergone on the hangers used in installation.
As well as personalization, advertising can be done on the surface area of mud flaps. Other passengers and drivers on the road are attracted to the information posted on mud guards every day. So, custom designs and information are visible to a large audience on a highly regular basis.
Mickey Genuine Parts has various mud flaps and mud flap brackets for sale, as well as a vast array of other parts and accessories. We have used trailers for the budget conscious individual. And we offer the assistance of superb technicians at any one of our Mickey certified service centers. Contact us today to experience the Mickey difference.
I've bought several new enclosed trailers, most of them custom built. I order them with extra floor bracing and brakes on all wheels, many times tandems only come with brakes on one axle.
Step 1: Gut all wiring and replace it with heavy trailer cable and weatherproof connectors (heat shrink). Upgrade to LEDs if it doesn't have them. Install a ring of LED lights around the inside top of the trailer wired to the marker lights so you have great inside lighting any time the markers are on. I install a junction box on the tongue where the leads come together with an LED that tells me the taillights are on/have power. I use a 7 way RV plug wired to charge the trailer battery, grease the plug and the trailer ball(s) regularly.
Step 2: Buy a 5 gallon pail of grease and cover the framerails and anything steel underneath so it doesn't rot in Cleveland.
Step 3: Mount a spare tire on the front, weld a piece of 2x4" channel to support it, put a tire cover on it. My trailers have winches so a 12v car battery on another piece of channel welded to the tongue. I weld piece of thin plate across the bottom of the A frame tongue to create a spot to hold the jack wheel, lock and etc. It lays there while driving and never bounces out.
Step 4: Put spacers under the front jack so when it retracts it fully retracts. If you don't it will likely hang up and get bent over on a curb. (I bought a few before figuring this out). I use pieces of 3/8" or 1/2" black pipe cut square for spacers with longer 3/8" bolts.
Step 5: Drill a tiny lube hole in the side of the jack near the top to apply spray grease to the threaded rod inside.
Step 6: Paint (or use a piece of electrical tape) a stripe horizontally across the front of the enclosed trailer body about 5' up. This aligns with the defroster grid lines when I look in my rearview mirror (large SUV). I glance at this regularly while driving and if the stripe doesn't align with the defroster grids perfectly I know I have a tire or spring problem. This saved me a big issue when I broke a spring one time, I noticed it right away as the grid didn't line up. Try it with a piece of tape, you'll be hooked.
Step 6: Grease the lugs and recheck wheel torque regularly.
Step 7: I keep a tote with all the typical breakdown supplies in it that I move from active trailer to active trailer.
Step 8: Grease the trailer bearings (most have zerks in the caps) when new as they are pretty skimpy on how much grease they get at the factory.
Step 9: I put an extra layer of tongue and groove plywood flooring on top of the flooring that's already there as it's usually only 1/2". Cut it to fit snugly and screw it in place with drywall screws. It can easily be removed if for some reason you'd want to, but I never have.
Knock on wood, I've put many, many thousands of miles on trailers and never had a breakdown, flat tire or electrical problem outside of the broken leaf spring, and that was a fluke- an almost new trailer that had never been overloaded. After that trailer every one since has gotten TorFlex axles (no springs). I keep all of my trailers stored inside dry buildings so they don't weather, also.
It sucks to buy a new trailer as it means I have 20+ hours of work getting the wiring and welding done to my liking, but that's life. I drill the floor and weld long 1/2" eye bolts to the frame rails for my tie downs and weld the eyes closed. I also have E-track running down the center of the floor screwed through both layers of flooring into the crossmembers with nuts and bolts. I also have several custom E-track hold-down gizmos I made for my uses.
I have trailers with 1 7/8, 2, and 2 5/16" balls. That means I have about 6-8 different ball mounts with varying drops so I don't have to mess with changing balls and stuff. I like my trailers to ride level.
When you do brakes, buy backing plate assemblies and new drums. The surface the magnet rides on gets grooved and the magnet doesn't bite well.
Back up cameras are the cat's ass when hooking up!